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Just an hour's ferry ride from Spain, Morocco seems very far from Europe, with a deeply traditional Islamic culture. Throughout the country, despite its 44 years of French and Spanish colonial rule, a more distant past constantly makes its presence felt. Travel here is, if not always easy, an intense and rewarding experience.

Berbers, the indigenous population, make up over half of Morocco's population. Only around ten percent of Moroccans claim to be "pure" Arabs, though with a population shift to the industrialized cities, such distinctions are becoming less significant. More telling is the legacy of the colonial period: until independence in 1956, the country was divided into Spanish and French zones, the latter building Villes Nouvelles (new towns) alongside the long-standing Medinas (old towns) in all the country's main cities.

Most visitors' introduction to Morocco is Tangier in the north, still shaped by its heyday of "international" port status in the 1950s. To its south, in the Rif mountains, the town of Chefchaouen is a small-scale and enjoyably laid-back place, while inland lies the enthralling city of Fes, the greatest of the four imperial capitals (the others are Meknes, Rabat and Marrakesh). The sprawl of Meknes, with its ancient walls, makes an easy day-trip from Fes.

The power axis of the nation lies on the coast in Rabat and Casablanca, respectively the seats of government and of industry and commerce. "Casa" looks more like Marseille than anything Moroccan, while the elegant, orderly capital, Rabat, houses some gems of Moroccan architecture. Further south, Marrakesh is an enduring fantasy that won't disappoint. The country's loveliest resort, Essaouira, a charming walled seaside town, lies within easy reach of Marrakesh and Casablanca.

Morocco highlights:

Chefchaouen Beautiful and very friendly little town in the Rif mountains, where the houses look like they're made of blue meringue.

Medina, Fes An incredible labyrinth of alleys, sights and smells in the world's best-preserved medieval city.

Djemaa el Fna, Marrakesh A spontaneous live circus in a large square in the middle of town, featuring everything from snake charmers to tooth pullers.

Essaouira Arty, laid-back seaside and surfing resort where Jimi Hendrix once played impromptu concerts on the beach.

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